TSSA Licensed Gas & Electric Dryer Repairs.
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Drum Slides or Glides: The drum slides, also known as glides, support the front part of the dryer’s drum on either side. The slides are made from plastic, teflon, or nylon and have a cork or felt backing depending on the dryer model. The slides are used to provide a smooth surface for the drum to rotate on. They tend to wear out over time and will produce a scraping sound due to the metal-to-metal contact. To inspect the slides, open up the dryer’s cabinet and take a look. If the slides look worn then they will need to be replaced.
Drum Bearings: Some models of dryers will have a bearing supporting the drum at the rear. Depending on the type of dryer, the bearing may be ball and socket or a shaft connected to a sleeve bushing. A faulty drum rear bearing will produce a loud squeaking noises and needs to be replaced quickly.
Drive Belt: All dryers, both gas and electric, will use a belt to rotate the dryer’s drum. With age the belt can become brittle; some parts of the belt might separate and make a thumping noise while the drum is turning. The belts can be inspected for damage easily by removing the front panel. If the belt shows any signs of fraying or wear, then it needs to be replaced.
Your Dryer Won’t Start Up:
Door Switch: The door switch is what signals the dryer to start tumbling. This can only happen when the door is shut. If the dryer won’t start when the door is closed, you most likely have an issue with a faulty door switch. The switch is located behind the front panel of most dryer models, with the switch button sticking out from the door opening. The door switch can be tested with a multimeter for continuity. If you are unsure of how to do this test, you should call a trained technician to do it for you.
Thermal Fuse: The thermal fuse is a safety device used to prevent the dryer from overheating. It is heat sensitive and will open if the temperature becomes too hot. When this happens it will usually cut the power to the drive motor and in turn stop the dryer from working. The thermal fuse is an inch in length and surrounded by white plastic. Depending on the brand, your dryer might have a couple of thermal fuses. For an electric dryer the fuses are located on the heating element housing or the blower housing; on a gas dryer they will be located on the the burner housing.
Drive Motor: All dryers have a drive motor that turns the drum and blower. A defective drive motor can cause your dryer to not start and make humming noise from a bad switch on the motor. To inspect a defective drive motor you will need to remove both the front panel and the drum. Since testing a drive motor will require you to supply line voltage to the proper terminals, this should only be performed by qualified technicians to prevent injury.
Your Dryer Isn’t Producing Enough Heat:
Heating Element: If you have an electric dryer, the heat is produced by a heating element. The element made up of a coil of heating wire enclosed in a metal chamber. An electric current flows through the coil to creates the heat, and then air is pulled through the metal chamber to absorb the heat. If the heating element is damaged it won’t heat at all. It can be tested for continuity with a multimeter device, though this should only be done by someone with the proper training.
Igniter: More modern gas dryers have an igniter. When the dryer is getting ready for heat, the igniter will glow as it starts to heats up. When the igniter reaches the maximum temperature, the gas valve will open and the gas will be ignited. Depending on the model that your dryer is, the igniter could be flat or a coil shaped. The igniter is positioned inside the dryer near the gas valve burner tube. Igniters are delicate and should be handled very carefully. They can be tested for continuity with a multimeter device, but remember to disconnect the dryer’s power source first.
Gas Control Valve: The gas control valve is an important part in gas dryers. It is powered by the igniter circuit and flame sensor. When its circuit is complete, the coils will be energized and the valve will open releasing gas into the burner. A sign of a faulty gas control valve is when the igniter glows but then turns off without a producing a flame. The gas control valve might also start off working correctly, but can become defective later in the cycle, which will result in there not being sufficient heat being produced.
Remember to *always* turn off the power to any appliance before attempting a repair.
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